![]() ![]() I find I do better if I work with one dog at a time on slow-moving processes like this. Progress! The other dogs are next in line for this Dremel + nail board system. She can scratch off the point and some more of the middle of the nail using the board the next day or so. That leaves a bit of a point at the bottom of the nail. For Clara, I use a Dremel to do the “alternate cut line” (take more off the top of the nail). (Check out the Facebook group “Nail Maintenance for Dogs” for more info.) The board itself doesn’t take off the part of the nail that needs to come off with the “alternate cut,” but it’s a great adjunct. ![]() I follow the “alternate cut line” technique demonstrated and promoted by Susan Garrett, Dr. My final goal is to have very short nails on all my dogs. I replace the sandpaper whenever it starts to wear down, usually every couple of months. You can move them gradually to the coarsest grade necessary. I started them on a finer grit though, and that’s what I would recommend when starting out. They all learned early on to extend their nails to protect their pads. I use a staple gun to attach 60-grade sandpaper (very coarse) to the board because all my dogs have hard nails and have become experienced scratchers. I’ll tell you about a couple of things that worked, too. (Here’s a good video by Kevin Duggan if you want to know how to get started using a nail board.) But I’m also going to work to rectify it. ![]() In other words, I’m going to tell you about a mistake I made. This isn’t a how-to post it’s mostly another “Do as I say, not as I do,” post. I use it as an adjunct to trimming and Dremeling, and the dogs enjoy getting part of the kibble in exchange for scratching. I’ve been using a nail board (custom-made by Bob Rogers–thanks Bob and Marge!) with all three of my dogs for a few years now. ![]()
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